Leading Fair Trade Coffee Roaster Critiques Recent Starbucks Decision
Published November 07, 2008 @ 07:56AM PT
Last week, Starbucks announced that they were to double their Fair Trade coffee purchases. Since then, I have been talking to different people within the Fair Trade movement collecting their thoughts on the whole matter, as this decision has pretty big implications, particularly for small-scale farmers. I was particularly interested in what Dean Cycon, of leading Fair Trade coffee company, Dean's Beans had to say about the whole decision. Dean has been a longtime critic of Starbucks as well as the way TransFairUSA has done certification in the US. Dean's Beans even left the roster of Fair Trade Certified companies due to growing concerns for TFUSA to improve their certification practices, including a call for transparency in TFUSA's actions. Dean's Beans later re-joined the Fair Trade Certified roster in order to be a strong voice within the Fair Trade Certified world speaking up for the small-scale farmers and improving the Certification system.
Dean was kind enough to take time off of his busy schedule to send me his thoughts on the Starbucks' latest decision. Truly honored that he did because his schedule included the UN Global Compact meeting at the UN, heading off to El Salvador to teach a roasting and marketing course to small scale roasters there, heading off to Timor to start some new development projects aaaand speaking at a local Unitarian church to talk about the power of cooperatives. yowza.
So, what did Dean Cycon have to say about the decision? Here's his critique:
It is so difficult to understand what is going on with Starbucks. Are they sincere or is this just another in a long line of marketing efforts. Without real, hard data we can only hope for the best. I don't know what Transfair and Starbucks mean when they say they are going to harmonize in some way the fabled C.A.F.E. standards with Fair Trade regulations. Fair trade is about transparency and accountability, but up to now Starbucks has not been either with regard to their self-proclaimed "comprehensive, industry leading" C.A.F.E. program. The C.A.F.E. standards are pretty mysterious, and most Starbucks people will readily admit they don't fully understand them. The company is notorious for massaging what really goes on under those standards. For example, they forget to tell us that the farmers actually have to pay to participate. They also say that almost two hundred thousand farmers are somehow covered by the standards, but they don't say to what extent and what benefits, if any, those farmers actually receive. The C.A.F.E. standards provide up to ten cents premium per pound, depending on how many social, quality and environmental "points" up to ten the farmer achieves. But Starbucks has never revealed if 90% of the farmers get one cent or five, and have any at all received the full ten cents? Furthermore, Starbucks doesn't tell us what the base price the farmer gets actually is, so that it is impossible to know whether the farmer, even with the C.A.F.E. points, actually does better selling to Starbucks or to any other commercial purchaser. Remember, Starbucks sets the base price, not the farmer. So if Starbucks lowballs the base price and then adds two cents C.A.F.E. premium, the farmer doesn't get any more, but Starbucks sure gets good press.
At the end of the day, the question to ask Starbucks is always the same: why aren't you ninety or one hundred percent Fair Trade? Why does Starbucks charge so much more for their non-Fair Trade coffees (often from the same source as us!) than we Fair Traders charge for our 100% Fair Trade coffees? I am thrilled that Starbucks is squeezing out a little from their engorged profit margins to give a little back to the farmer, but they have a long way to go before they can make the claims they make about being so socially responsible with a straight face.
[image credit Jasmin Chua, at www.worstedwitch.com, photo credit: AP photo, Paul Franz]
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Zarah is the Operations Manager for the Global Exchange Fair Trade Online Store, a project of the international human rights organization, Global Exchange. Alongside her work with marginalized communities from all over the world to get their products into the international market, Zarah serves to educate and inform the public about a more just and sustainable trading system.
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Aaaaaand Starfux coffee tastes like crap.
I want coffee that is not over-roasted, that has crema, that comes served to me at my seat in a real coffee cup that is not a mug. I want cream, real cream, not half and half or milk. I want coffee that is serious about itself.
Can we do a 'cause' for that?
Posted by Charles Lenchner on 11/08/2008 @ 10:59AM PT
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I've studied the Starbucks C.A.F.E. up close and even got to visit (w/a NY Times reporter) a small-farmer co-op in Chiapas that sells to Starbucks, as well the Chiapas HQ of the huge coffee exporter, AMSA, who is one of the two outfits that does all the buying and exporting for Starbucks in Mexico. They gave us a detailed presentation on their work with Starbucks.
With that - and other research - this is the how I see the difference between the C.A.F.E. system and the Fair Trade & organic alternative.
(Note: that Starbucks has moved into chocolate, too, and there again is planning on NOT choosing Fair Trade or Organic suppliers but rather will apply a cocoa-version of C.A.F.E.)
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Some of the key differences between the Starbucks’ C.A.F.E. approach and the Fair Trade & organic alternative
Do you know what you’re getting?
With FT & organic certification you do. With C.A.F.E. you don’t. Starbucks can (& does) say that x % of their beans are bought under their C.A.F.E. standards, but was the coffee in the bag in your hand grown & traded that way? Maybe, maybe not. Starbucks doesn’t segregate and label their C.A.F.E. sourced coffee from the rest.
Certified vs. “Just Trust Us”
While I personally think that the C.A.F.E. system has actually motivated coffee growers to improve their practices it’s hard to know due to the opacity of the C.A.F.E. system. For instance, whereas organic and FT systems make it clear you must do X & Y, and you may not do P or Q, the C.A.F.E. system works on a point system that makes most anything optional, so long as you score high in another area. Additionally, whereas organic and Fair Trade certification requirements externally imposed demands upon those participating, Starbucks wrote their own standards (admittedly with a lot input, but you see the problem).
Are you supporting a co-op, or a plantation owner?
With FT coffee you are supporting a small farmer cooperative-period.With STBX coffee it might not even be sourced under C.A.F.E. standards. In which case you’re not.
And if it was sourced via the C.A.F.E. program, it might not have been grown by a co-op.
And even if was co-op grown, it definitely was not co-op exported (whereas it always is under FT). This is because Starbucks has centralized their supply chain to minimize the number of exporters they buy from. This has meant that co-ops (like the Comon Yaj Noc Pic co-op I visited in Chiapas) must sell to a large corporate exporter (in their case AMSA) who in turn process and export the coffee.
And if a co-op has not moved up the supply chain to become an exporter, than they are not developing nearly the organizational or professional strength and independence that the Fair Trade co-ops are. It was very telling that the co-op we visited sold 100% of their crop to Starbucks (via AMSA, of course), AND that organizational they were very weak. They had very limited capacity to judge their own quality (AMSA does that), and no capacity to seek out other buyers if that we’re necessary some day.
Credit:
In 2007 Equal Exchange fulfilled 100% of the requests for advance, affordable credit, which totaled $1.9+ million. That’s amounts to about 45 cents for every pound we imported.
The C.A.F.E. program has the growers meet many criteria, but doesn’t ask much of Starbucks. For example, Starbucks doesn’t provide advance credit. Yes, you might read about Starbucks writing a check here or there to a group like Calvert or Root Capital to support the provision of credit, but they don’t actually tap that for their own supply chain. I guess because that kind of involved intimacy w/their supply chain doesn’t REALLY interest them (hence they outsource the work to corporate exporters like AMSA). Further, even if you were to count those checks Starbucks has written, it’s a neglible amount compared to the scale of their operation – equal to about 1 cent per pound imported.
Price:
Equal Exchange, of course, promises to pay co-ops at minimum $1.36 for non-organic coffee, and $1.56 for certified organic coffee. Often we pay more. For example, for the most recent Mexican harvest we paid up to $1.65.
In contrast, according to their most recently released data, Starbucks pays exporters on avg. $1.42/lb. But even a co-op, like Comon Yaj Noc Pic, who sells certified organic coffee into the Starbucks system, gets only $1.23 (at least 23 cents less than they would from EE).
Outsourcing the hardest work to the coffee growers
With Fair Trade a grower will get, at minimum, a definite price (from EE its at least $1.36 or $1.56/lb) if they meet certain established, fixed criteria, assuming they can find enough buyers (which is why we try hard to grow not only our own imports, but also encourage the industry to buy more FT coffee).
Conversely, under the C.A.F.E. point system Starbucks has created a situation where coffee growers (including both plantations and co-ops) are in a constant struggle to score more and more social and environmental points, as that might move them closer to the front of the line of potential suppliers. Those in the front of the line get first right to sell to Starbucks. Thanks to this competition the “bar” is always moving higher.
This means that while last year your co-op may have had the right to sell to Starbucks, and while you may have improved your social and environmental performance by another 5% since then, it may now not be good enough – if other growers improved by even more.
While it’s nice to see this kind of arguably “virtuous competition” it must be kept in mind that Starbucks makes no promise to pay any more for this coffee, even though more effort went into it, and more “good” was accomplished. And because the desire to sell to STBX is so great STBX doesn’t need to offer any more. The net effort is that whereas FT importers are consciously committing to paying growers more to make social and environmental improvements possible, Starbucks has devised a way to, in essence, outsource that extra burden to the growers themselves. If they want to sell to STBX they just need to dig deeper, or try harder, than the other growers, but they can’t count on a higher price for their coffee to offset these investments or efforts.
Supporting broader industry-wide change vs. supporting The Starbucks Way
By buying & supporting FT and organic products consumers are adding momentum and market power to a pair of independent systems that can be utilized by thousands of growers, importers and food companies around the world. Just look at our how both systems have caught on and are transforming our agricultural and trade practices.
By buying non-organic, non-FT coffee (or tea or cocoa) from Starbucks, and instead relying on their C.A.F.E. system to create change, you’re strengthening Starbucks’ decision to keep their participation in the organic & Fair Trade systems to a minimum, and to instead handle their massive imports through their own proprietary standards system that directly competes with, and undermines, the – we believe – much more demanding, effective & transparent organic and Fair Trade systems. How many of their competitors have adopted their heavily promoted C.A.F.E. standards? Zero. This is in part because there is a built in disincentive (who wants to strengthen STBX’s hand?), and in part because STBX created something that doesn’t lend itself to adoption by others.
Posted by Rodney North on 11/12/2008 @ 10:38AM PT
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